I purchased a Masters G22 at first it worked fine I use ,createx cleaner and window cleaner to clean it ,but lately it will only spray for a min or 2 then sputter sprays I only run 14 to 16 psi through it , I purchased the entire 99.00 kit with compressor ,paint,and brush I keep it very clean never let it sit with paint in it .I cant figure out why it stops spraying and yes im mixing my paint with 1 part water to keep it thin ????? WTH anyone know what would cause this ??
Could be a couple of different things - or a combination.
Need more info.
When you say the airbrush "sputter sprays" - what exactly is it doing?
Is the airbrush spitting water?'
Or does the compressor's motor sound/run differently?
What are you airbrushing with that you have to thin it?
Ok.
Your answers provide more information - which is great - but I still need to know if the airbrush is spitting water (caused by moisture in the line) OR if the Compressor Motor is having a problem.
Do you have an air tank on your compressor? WHAT model compressor do you have?
Textile paints like used for the jean jacket are typically airbrushed at a MUCH higher PSI than culinary.
When I do textile work, I'm easily spraying at over 25 PSI.
If the color is designed for airbrush you should NOT have to thin it.
If you do, there's something else going on.
Which o-ring is broken? at the air valve intake at the bottom where the hose connects?
You may have an air-valve leak which would be one possible cause of the skipping.
But, if that were the case, I'd expect the skipping to be happening as soon as you start spraying.
Edit: Transparent colors are almost always thinner than Opaque colors. Transparnet colors behave more like a dye. Opaque more like a paint.
What size needle does your airbrush have? Over .3mm should be fine for textile colors. I'm wondering if you've got enough air power from your compressor.
Not every airbrush model has an o-ring where yours appears to be - where the Nozzle Cap threads on to the airbrush Body.
YES - a break in this seal that allows air to leak WILL cause as skipping line.
Assemble the airbrush. Wipe soapy water all the way around the outside where the 2 parts meet. Then airbrush with water. If the soapy water bubbles, then you know you have an air leak. If the airbrushed water is a steady stream, then starts skipping and there are NO soap bubbles, then the problem is somewhere else.
Again, it is quite possible that you have more than one issue.
Do you take your hose off the compressor and hang it so it dries out? Do you live in a humid environment or airbrush for long periods of time? Do you have a moisture trap? Water in the AIR LINE will also cause the sputtering you're describing.
And, no worries. The problems you are encountering are the same regardless of if you are airbrushing t-shirts, cars or cakes. It's all good information and hopefully can help others here.
AYes I have a moisture trap. And no I don't remove my hose I empty the trap as soon as I turn it off I will try what you said and I now realize if I'm gonna go all the way with this I need to invest more I'm gonna buy the Moslem master 444 6 brush kit and spare parts soon
you should never use window cleaner to clean your airbrush! it will erode the chrome in the cup & it will start to rust & make it much harder to clean
Windex is a tried-and true cleaner used by airbrush artists for many a decade to clean a stubborn mess. Proper cleaning will remove all the windex - which should be washed out with a soap that we would wash our dishes with.
Much of the trouble comes when people soak the airbrush body in solution. Which they really shouldn't do unless color has gotten into the trigger area and the air valve has been removed.
Now, Windex - or any caustic cleaner - can harm an airbrush if it is left for extended soaking. Days. Good quality airbrushes have a thicker layer of chrome than *value* equipment, so this makes a difference, too.
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