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Cover a dummy cake with royal icing? - Page 2

post #16 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by LadyPol

Quote:
Originally Posted by indydebi

I ice all of my dummies in BC. No vanilla, no dream whip. It hardens like concrete. I pick them up from the sides, they've traveled to numerous shows, and I tell everyone, "Sure! Go ahead! You can touch them!"

Never had a need to use RI for anything cake.



IndyDebi ~ so just the Crisco and the powdered sugar? I have been asked to ice a huge dummy sheet cake for our local theatre and I've never decorated one before. I haven't used RI since my first Wilton class and am much more comfortable with your butter cream icing. This dummy cake has to last a few weeks through several shows (it is brought out at the end of the play) ...

You will need to add a liquid ..... milk or water. I omit the dream whip and vanilla because they are flavorings and we're not eating the dummy icing! icon_smile.gif
post #17 of 38
Thank you all!
post #18 of 38

Could someone tell me how to get royal icing to stay soft enough to add dowels and skewers into a dummy cake after frosting it?

post #19 of 38

Why do you need to dowel/skewer a covered dummy? 

post #20 of 38

I am entering our fair and it is the theme cake 1/2 sheet and I have made a palm tree out of gum paste and a ride that needs to be put into the top of the styrofoam and other things
 

post #21 of 38

The palm tree is on a skewer that i need to put into the styrofoam. If the Royal icing gets hard as i have heard then i won't be able to put things that i have made into the dummy cake without it cracking. I have always used Buttercream and not Royal Icing and the fair here will have it for 10 days starting the 14th of next month. In the rules it says no buttercream. Will i be able to frost it and then put the items on into the dummy. Thank you


Edited by proudmary1960 - 7/29/13 at 12:24am
post #22 of 38

Yes, it gets hard, but you could always get a cotton ball or swab wet with water, and just wipe it off in a tiny little area where you need to jab your skewer. It melts in an instant when wet, so be careful, and dab the edges dry, before you proceed.

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post #23 of 38

Or poke while it is still wet, obviously.

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post #24 of 38

Do i do anything to the styrofoam before i ice it? Thank you so much for your help!
 

post #25 of 38

I'd decide on the placement of the items before icing the dummy.  I'd poke a hole slightly smaller than my dowel/skewer.  While the icing was still damp, I'd put a toothpick/cocktail stick into the hole and move it around to clear the icing out.  I'd repeat this each time I put on a coat of royal.  As soon as I put on the final coating of royal, I'd insert a dowel/skewer the same size as the supports for the items and I'd leave it there until the royal was dry.  I'd remove it when ready to put on the final decorations.

post #26 of 38
If you think you would like to use the dummy again, you could tightly wrap it with plastic wrap, to make it easier to clean afterwards.
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post #27 of 38

I still say, if it's a dummy, that's going to be reused, frost it in Hydrocal (it's a very dense gypsum plaster, used for molds in lost wax casting, and for model railroad scenery that's strong enough to walk on).

 

And whether you're using royal, or Hydrocal, or whatever, if it sets up hard, and you need to put holes in it, there's a wonderful tool for that. It's called a drill.icon_biggrin.gif

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post #28 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by hbquikcomjamesl View Post

I still say, if it's a dummy, that's going to be reused, frost it in Hydrocal (it's a very dense gypsum plaster, used for molds in lost wax casting, and for model railroad scenery that's strong enough to walk on).

 

And whether you're using royal, or Hydrocal, or whatever, if it sets up hard, and you need to put holes in it, there's a wonderful tool for that. It's called a drill.icon_biggrin.gif

I think I may try your Hyrdrocal one of these days. Is it frosting consistency when mixed to the proper ratios, or more like a slip? 

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post #29 of 38

It can be mixed to a range of consistencies, but typically, for model railroad scenery purposes, it's mixed to about a cake batter consistency. Too thick, and it doesn't have enough water to "go off" properly. It's been a few years, but it does thicken significantly as it starts to go off. And you can retard the setting process, if you're planning on piping the stuff, to gain more working time.

 

Plaster of Paris doesn't get nearly as hard, but as I recall, it's slower.

 

And in the traditional model railroad usage, of layering Hydrocal-soaked paper towels over a rough approximation of the desired scenery forms, two layers, properly supported, really are solid enough to walk on.

 

It's been quite a few years since I've used it, myself. I recommend looking for books and/or videos on model railroad scenery.

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Web site: http://www.hbquik.com/jamesl

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Web site: http://www.hbquik.com/jamesl

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post #30 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by hbquikcomjamesl View Post

It can be mixed to a range of consistencies, but typically, for model railroad scenery purposes, it's mixed to about a cake batter consistency. Too thick, and it doesn't have enough water to "go off" properly. It's been a few years, but it does thicken significantly as it starts to go off. And you can retard the setting process, if you're planning on piping the stuff, to gain more working time.

 

Plaster of Paris doesn't get nearly as hard, but as I recall, it's slower.

 

And in the traditional model railroad usage, of layering Hydrocal-soaked paper towels over a rough approximation of the desired scenery forms, two layers, properly supported, really are solid enough to walk on.

 

It's been quite a few years since I've used it, myself. I recommend looking for books and/or videos on model railroad scenery.

I have worked on a railroad :-) my mom and her husband owned a model shop when I was a young teen, for about 2 years. They had a huge one in the window, but the window was covered because it was in "disrepair" to be kind. The hills were mostly fine, so I never had to do that, but I remember painting and painting and painting and painting.... and applying textures everywhere, grass (more like green flocking, paint glue on, then sprinkle the grass), cement, asphalt, trees, snow... I also got to spoon this crud that looked like pin oatmeal mixed with white glue all over, to make gravel for the train yard. I loved being able to open merchandise to fix up the set. I had a $30 limit (in the early 90's) and it couldn't be the last one of that item. I would also have to write the description and UPC on a binder I wish I had a picture. I didn't choose to have it as a hobby, I was just always grounded, so I had to go with them and sit for 5 hours doing nothing, so I did the train set. I was pretty proud of it. It was HUGE 8' square, with a big hole in the middle that had a "plug" of sorts that fit in that had scenery on it,  so I could take it out and squeeze in the middle to work on that part. 

 

I also made decorated train cookies for model train meetings, and airplane cookies for model airplane meetings. 

 

All the geeky model dudes (no offense, lol) would tell me I was the perfect woman, and they wanted to marry me, and then they would find out I was 12 or 13, and they would look like pervs. lol To be fair, I looked at least 17 or 18. 

 

I bet it would be so fun to do a whole scene on a cake, with edible media for a "model train enthusiast" , but would cost a PRETTY PENNY! It would take all week. 

 

Bringing it back around to the OP, Is there another product that is similar, but maybe not as strong that could be used? Is this stuff water proof, or would it disintegrate? Do you have to use special paints?

Sandable or easy to smooth? 

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